Through the Mist
Powdered Ridges
Aug 24, 2024
46.5378° N, 12.1359° E
Caro gave me a call on the Tuesday before we left. I had only packed my things for Madrid so I didn’t have any actual equipment but we rocked with some sweats and running shoes and a very non-waterproof puffer jacket. No forecast of rain, so I’m sure it’ll be fine.
Day 0: Madrid to Cortina D’ampezzo
Travel day. My friend Caro and I met at the airport and took a quick flight to Venice, Italy, where we would catch our bus into the Italian Alps. The travel legs were about two hours each, and we arrived in Cortina D’amezzo late in the afternoon without a hitch. Cortina is a small town at the base of the Dolomites, a mountain range that spans a good portion of northern Italy. It has a Swiss countryside vibe of wooden huts nestled into the mountains.
Caro figuring out where to get our last good meal before endless bread, cheese, and prosciutto.
What a vibe
Since there are so many trails in the Dolomites, we planned to get directions from one rifugio to the next each day and kinda wing it. We spent the day walking around the town, trying some new food and trying to find directions for the next day.
The Dolomites are very popular for the bus routes that go through the mountains, and make it rather easy to get around. Everyone we asked about the itinerary said the same thing:
“You can take the bus to…”
“The bus will put you right at…”
“L'autobus vi porterà…” (in Italian, but we got the gist)
But we came here to hike, so we refused to take the B-word.
Someone finally gave instructions on how to hike to our first stop in the mountains, and we would know we were close when we heard cattle bells.
Day 1: Cortina to Averau
Distance: 15 miles
Excitement at an all-time high
We woke up to a weather forecast of a “severe thunderstorm warning starting at 2 PM”. Glad I brought my rain gear…
Since we weren’t taking the B-word, we started our ascent immediately. I was hesitant (you’re welcome mama), but there were other rifugios along the way should the rain get too crazy.
We had 15 miles to do that day, straight up into the Dolomites, and into the thunderstorm. We had our map, which we would find out was not even a hiking map, but something the tourists could use to get around via bus.
Our first trailhead gave us a view of the iconic Dolomites Ridge. Hiking with this view on the horizon, we knew we made the right decision.
The trail was clearly marked, but there were hundreds of trails that led through the Dolomites. Within the first two hours, I managed to take a wrong turn and lead us astray. The (wrong) trail ended pretty abruptly, so we turned back to retrace. As we did, we were cornered by a cow on the trail and had to do some offroading to avoid it. We found out later that running from cows just makes them want to follow you more, so we hopped across the river to escape. After that Caro was in charge of directions.
She led us the right way and, almost immediately, heard the cattle bells and saw the first rifugio we were supposed to pass.
We met a few people from the States, and some lady gave us a real hiking map. We were ecstatic, except it was even more confusing than ours, so we tossed it.
Walking back into the adventure
Incredible, but pretty sure this was an outhouse
Like walking through the Lorax
Slowly getting more comfortable around the cattle
We kept making our way up the mountain looking at the thunderclouds that did not look promising, so I was booking it. None of the signs had distances, so we were pretty in the dark about how far we had come or how far we had to go. Our bus map wasn’t helping much either.
We reached the top of the first ridge and had an amazing view of the valley we came from and the untouched valley on the other side.
Definitely don’t get this on the bus route
New friends!
I was drastically unprepared with my clothing options
Passo Giao. Wish we could have stopped here.
We hiked along the ridge, passed Paso Giao, and finally found a sign for Rifugio Averau. After 15 miles of hiking on our first day, the rifugio was on the ridge about 200 meters above us. We could either hike 2 more miles and loop around, or rock scramble up the last section (think less intense rock climbing, but not a great idea to fall). Which one do you think we chose.
Still don’t understand the time estimates
Shortcut doesn’t look too bad, right Mom?!
Thunderstorm warning said it was starting at 2 PM. It was about 1:30 PM when we started our scramble. We soon found out that the weather forecast was astonishingly accurate, and about ten minutes after we got inside, it started d u m p i n g. Things might have gotten a little hairy if we were still on our shortcut…
First day of hiking done, rainstorm beaten, and just one more issue to tackle for the day: we only booked one bed for the night. There was only one available when we booked it, so we thought, “No big deal, we can share a bed worst case, it’s one night, no pasa nada”. The rifugio employees did not feel the same way. We were immediately denied the second bed, and were not going to let us share one. I legitimately thought I was going to be hucking it back down to Passo Giao or sleeping in the rain outside. After a very anxiety-inducing wait while the employee spoke with his boss, we were saved by the bell and allowed to stay. We even got cute little slippers so we didn’t have to wear our boots.
Day 2: Averau to Lagazoui
Distance: 5 miles
The rain didn’t stop. And I was drastically unprepared. So we improvised.
Sherpa Mode activated
That is me double trashbagged up and ready to take on the storm. Today was a short day - just five miles to the next rifugio. We hiked down to the gondola and saw Cinque Torre. If it wasn’t pouring, it would have been a sight to see.
Selfie
Not pooping. Just trying to get the angle.
Most of the hike was spent on the road so it wasn’t all that exciting. We finally found a path, the weather cleared, and the Dolomites started to show some personality.
You moody little…
National Geographic, here I come
We found these sweet glasses.
Cinque Torre from the other side and not in the rain
Just keeps going up
Taking the gondola up to Lagazoui was a high one, and the lady next to us was not having a good time. To be fair, it would be a long way down.
The top of the mountain was absurdly cloudy, so we explored a little but couldn’t venture too far. We did find a crazy ridge that I wanted to walk out onto, but Caro was too afraid so we decided against it…
Couldn’t see a thing
Caro wouldn't go out there so some other Italian went out for me instead
Looking off into the distance
But also, I was deathly afraid and absolutely would not have walked out there.
After a little rest, the clouds ended up clearing, and it was incredible. A random Italian man told us that this was the best view in the Dolomites. And he was right.
Me in the mountains!
Me looking at the mountains
The mountains I was looking at
The other side of the mountains I was looking at
Cool picture of the rifugio in the mountains!
Man making big fire in the mountains
Our home for the night on the side of a large cliff in the mountains
Lagazoui had an amazing deck overlooking the previous mountains, and we had some time to kill so naturally we got prosciutto sandwiches and a handful of beers. As we were lounging, we saw a cute couple in front of us. I took a picture and thought they might want it, but I’m learning there isn’t a great way to start that conversation.
“Hey! I’m a stranger, and I took an unsolicited photo of you without you knowing and I thought you might want it! Cheers!”
But the couple, Dave and Jenny, were appreciative and we ended up talking with them for a bit. Fast forward to dinner, and the four of us were paired at the same table. We had a hoot chatting with them. They were from Ireland, hiking the Alta Via 1, and had already been to the Dolomites a handful of times.
They gave us directions to our rifugio for the next day and showed us a shortcut through the pass they had come down. It was on a steeper part of the trail, but they said that if they could do it, we could do it. I don’t remember the exact words, but, in essence: Dave said it was chill.
We even saw a couple get proposed to at sunset. A little odd though, because the dude booked the 10-person room with their friends and even some strangers. Weird way to spend your proposal night.
Our new friends, Dave & Jenny
1st of many beers. We walked far, we deserved it.
Day 3: Lagazoui to Lavarella
Distance: 8 miles
Given the view we had seen the day before, we had to wake up for sunrise. The others all went to a different spot up the hill, so Caro and I had an empty ridge to watch it. I took about 1000 photos in about 30 minutes. Had a lot of fun looking through those later.
How nice they put a bench
Morning light
Layers of ridges and peaks
We head back to the rifugio, and hear a helicopter in the distance. We’re right at the rifugio and the heli whip around the peak, flying right over us to deliver supplies at the landing dock. The heli did about 5-10 rounds of deliveries so we watched what looked like the most fun morning job ever. Just a guy whipping around in a chopper through the Italian Alps. What a job.
DoorDash delivery for Ryan?
Where the freak are we supposed to go?
Sheep!
We set out on our day, hoping to follow Dave’s advice and cut through a portion of the mountains, rather than hike down to the town and resummit. We chatted with a group of hikers who pointed out our shortcut, and it definitely looked daunting, but doable. We saw another hiker already halfway up so I had a little more confidence, but still some hesitation. We found the tiny lake that marked our detour, and the trail that led up the side of the mountain.
As we come upon the start of our detour, we see a sign, not yet readable, with a giant red X on it. Surely a good sign. It read,
“Not a trail. Do not pass. Danger of falling rocks.”
Clearly, it was a trail. We could see it lead up to the pass we were meant to climb, and it was certainly the path to our shortcut. After a short deliberation (maybe a little too short), we made the decision to trek-on based on one single fact: Dave said it was chill.
It was a narrow trail with a steep drop-off to our left. I don't think anyone would have died if you fell, maybe just a broken bone or two, but steep enough to get the heart pumping. I was locked in, not looking down, and trudging on up. This was surely the way, right?
About 15 minutes into our ascent, I hear Caro loose a rock that fell down said slope. And it just did not stop falling. I would have looked back, but at this point, there was no way I was looking down this mountain. Absolutely no way. Justified response, right? If I look down, then I see scary slope, scary slope makes me feel scared, and well, we were committed so why stress myself out.
Onwards and upwards!
Instant vertigo
Later, I would find out that Caro was a little upset with me for not looking back because, well, what if it had been her falling down this mountain? I would have reached the top and never even noticed she was missing. Sorry, Caro! To be fair, I would have heard a scream, but I guess I could have taken a quick look to make sure she was all good. Next time we find ourselves on a forbidden trail, I’ll be more considerate.
About halfway up, we came across some wooden steps that seemed a lot easier to climb than what we had just done. Come to find out, we absolutely were on the wrong trail and could have used those stairs the entire time if we had started at a different point by the lake. Dave did not say it was chill to ignore the sign with the big red X on it. That one’s on us.
The rest of the stairs were still very steep, and I would hate to go down them, but we made it up without a hitch, and only a touch of vertigo. I don’t recommend closing one eye to take a photo when staring straight down the mountain. Totally worth the shot though.
Can’t believe they even call this a lake
What I imagine Mount Olympus would look like
Our faux rifugio coffee shop
The backside was easy money and I’m sure the people we passed thought: “Who tf are these two kids just skipping along the trail all happy-go-lucky?” Sorry!
Stopped for a quick lunch overlooking the town and tried dry-scooping my protein powder. Not terrible, but won’t be trying again.
Fun little hike the rest of the way down, but we passed a lot of people approaching the Dave-approved slope that I don’t think had a great time going down. I gave some warnings when I thought it appropriate, but nothing more we could do!
We came across a rifugio-like building, and excitement to be done for the day spiked, only to find out it was a coffee shop. We were a bit famished so we stopped for some espresso and uncured salami.
Goats!
Mountain espresso yum
Wish all coffee shops looked like this
We did a quick detour around a lake nearby that looked like the Yosemite of Italy. Beautiful overlook of a valley with steep cliffs and clear water. As we explored, we saw another helicopter land at the coffee shop. This heli was here for a less fun reason than our previous dream job deliveryman. A woman who we had passed earlier in the day had taken a spill, broken her arm, and needed to be evacuated. Not super encouraging, but nice knowing evac was an option.
Just want to jump on in
El Cap?
Lavarella Peak
Nailed it!
Caro had a crush on the heli pilot. Someone’s life was in danger, Caro!
On our final leg of the day, we passed some more cattle. Getting more comfortable with them (thank you exposure therapy).
Hiking with more confidence around our new friends
Absolute unit. Need to get his bulking schedule.
Dolomite grass = gainz for dayz
Dare I say lounging?
Easy money rest of the way to Lavarella. Not only was this home for the night, but also the highest brewery in all of Europe. So to show support for small businesses, I drank a few beers. Caro doesn’t consume gluten, so I had to take responsibility of drinking hers too.
Always my favorite sight to see our home for the night
New friends & new neighbors
I was a little too excited to try my beer so half was gone before I could capture the moment
What better view to enjoy Europe’s highest beer!
After our lounge, we explored around the rifugio before dinner. We found a beautiful lake that I wish we could have drank our beers at. Looks like I’ll have to go back.
We found a cool-looking bridge over the creek and sat for a little. Babbling brook, crystal-clear water, and nothing to do but enjoy.
That rock is begging for me to drink a beer on it with my toes in the water
Fun with aperture!
Always love a good reflection
One of my favorite selfies. On the babbling brook.
I think I previously mentioned the slippers that Averau was so generous to provide me. I had brought them with me the whole trip. After our lake exploration, right before dinner, I found they were missing from the boot room. Devastating news after a wonderful day. So I rocked my boots to dinner, and, obviously, I was miserable. Until I glanced at the shoes below the table across from us (not in a weird way, okay). And there they were. My coveted slippers. My pads of heaven. Do I confront this man for stealing my greatest source of joy? Chances are he doesn’t even speak English (actually, everyone in these rifugios spoke English). So I was hesitant. But I worked up the courage, and I asked him. Totally not my slippers. Should have realized that I was not the only person to have picked up the hundreds of pairs of slippers they give out to every traveler. My bad dude.
To take my mind off my loss, Caro and I split a liter of wine on the deck and watched the sunset over the valley. It was our last night in the mountains, and regardless of my tragedy, it was one of the best.
Day 4: Lavarella to Cortina D’amezzo
Distance: 10 miles
Last day in the mountains, and our last chance to see the sunrise. I had been carrying my tripod for some 40 miles now, and used it once? Thought I’d give it another shot.
Silky smooth water from a long-exposure? Sign. Me. Up.
Our final descent into Cortina was smooth as can be. A fellow on the trail alluded to an amazing gorge we would pass, but after a while of not seeing it, we thought this guy was crazy. Maybe the true gorge was the friends we made along the way.
But then we did find it. Amazing gorge where the river cuts through the cliffs, and I managed to take 0 cool photos of it. Some moments aren’t meant to be captured.
Along the gorge, we saw a handful of people with harnesses and helmets, exploring the famed “via ferratas” of the Dolomites. We didn’t have the gear, but you can bet we will be back to clip in and hike some seriously sketchy cliffs on some seriously sketchy terrain. Sorry mom!
Our last leg was the 2-mile road down to Cortina. As if we hadn’t heard it enough, the best option was to take the bus. We’d avoided it for this long so we finished the Cortina Wraparound strong, on our feet.
No tripod needed
This would have been epic
Day 5: Cortina D’amezzo to Madrid
Rainy day. So we kicked up our feet in the airport lounge. Drank some wine. And made our way home.
What a trip.